Bangkok! (or the last Thailand update, I swear)
The first thing you notice about Bangkok is that, just like Sydney, its massive. There are so many people living there, so many buildings, the place never seemed empty - even at ridiculous times of the morning. Always full.
But at the same time, you still have the same dodgy powerlines, the market stall driiven shopping centres, and just this feeling that things are done differently over here.
But thats what I liked so much about it
Bangkok Day 1
I’m not going to consider our first night in Bangkok as day 1, so i’ll start it here. We had our day planned out to go to the Penis Temple, to go to Phantip Plaza, and then go to Siriraj Hospital to see the Forensic Museum.
So we go downstairs and jump into a tuk tuk after telling the guy exactly where we wanted to go, and after having been there for a fortnight we figured we were fine and could tell the guy what we did and didn’t want to do.
Wrong. He took us to the usual spots, a suit place and a gem store, before bypassing the penis garden and dropping us off at Phantip Plaza. Not the best start to the day, but we coped.
Prantip plaza is massive. Its 7 floors worth of computer markets. I was going to buy an EEEPC over there but decided against it after a sd card we bought ended up being dodgy (thankfully hadn’t left the store yet before i tested it, and managed to get a return). As much as there are computer stores everywhere, there are also big chain type stores - kind of like your Harvey Normans and your JB Hifi’s in amongst all the small stalls. And the big chain stores also had smaller stores where they would sponsor a brand and only feature that product. For example, one had its large store as well as a sony store, a samsung store, and a canon store.
After wanding from the bottom to the top (and buying nothing but blank mini dv tapes) we decided it was time to eat - but the ticketing system they have in place (more on that later) combined with seeing one of the kitchens doing the washing up in the public toilet, we decided to give it a miss. Oh and the toilets were squats here too, and it was a couple of baht for a small packet of toilet paper.
Outside and still hungry, we followed the lunchtime rush and decided to eat at a street cart where all the locals were eating. We ended up at this one that had a little bbq running, and bought like half a tonne of meat on tiny skewers for 50 baht. we nearly couldn’t finish it, but it was so good
After our lunch and some help from a kind local, we flagged down a taxi to make our way to the Forensic Museum. Unfortunately the taxi driver had NFI where he was going and frequently had to stop and ask for directions. But the meter was so slow to tick over, we werent worried.
In the end, the taxi driver dropped us off at the Thai Museum, which wasn’t too far to where we wanted to go. With a litle more help (and a fair bit of hinderance) from a very well meaning local, we were on the right track, catching a ferry over to the hospital.
After navigating through the jungle of low awnings, hotplates with delicious aromas, and tonnes of school kids, we finally made our way to the forensic museum. And holy shit, that place is heavy.
Upon walking in, you’re immediatley confronted with skulls and photos of people who have been shot, bludgeoned, stabbed, mauled, squished, and just generally fucked up. From tiny babies who were crushed in car accidents to shotgun blasts to the face in a nightclub. Photos, and affected body parts were on display.
After that we checked out the tsunami exhibit, where they showed the rations that were dropped down to people in need, as well as outlining the method in which they categorised bodies and patients for care. There were detailed explanations adn graphic images of the dead and dying. Again, very informative but also very heavy to think about.
After that we wandered over to the general exhibit where they had all sorts of bodyparts under glass. They also had the remains of some rapists who were put to death, as well as Si Quey a cannibal serial killer who is used as a bogeyman to keep kids on the straight and narrow.
After looking at smashed/shot/burnt skulls, hands, legs, bodyparts in general, and seeing babies in jars, babies with 2 heads in jars, organs in jars, just bout everything you want except vegemite in jars, we wandered over to an exhibit that showed how childbirth was done back in the day… Danielle didn’t seem to think that gripping onto a rope from the ceiling and pulling was the way to go about it for her, so we left the museum and wandered into the neighbouring parasite museum. not much to mention there, lots of bugs, but nothing really noteworthy.
So we bid goodbye to the hospital, and caught the ferry again but this time in the pouring rain. Soaked, tired, and a little hungry, i managed to convince a reluctant cabbie to drive us home through peak hour traffic. we tipped him well in the end, but the trip barely cost us 5 bux and easily lasted 45 mins.
Back in the hotel with a beer, we rested before attending a free dinner and dance show put on by the hotel. It was an intimate setting, and we sat around as dancers told stories of kings and queens, monkeys and so forth. was quite entertaining, and a nice way to cap off the day.
Bangkok Day 2
Today was the Death Railway and TIger Temple tours, which we nearly missed after getting the times wrong to meet our guide
We hopped aboard a bus and were taken about an hour or so out of Bangkok to Kanchanaburi, where we went to the Kanchanaburi War Cemetary. Unfornately it was closed for maintenance, but we still got some nice photos (which will come up eventually).
Afterwards we went to the Death Railway, the JEATH War Museum, and a boatride up the River Kwai before having lunch on a floating restaurant.
After lunch we had another bus trip over to the Tiger Temple where we got to walk with and take photos with tigers and cubs. The cubs were extremely playful and tried to climb all over Danielle - turning her white top absolutely filthy
A long bus trip home, and we were back and chilling at the hotel. But our day doesn’t end here!
When we got home I made a call to the Vertigo Bar, a restaurant that is on the 61st floor and overlooks Bangkok. Unfortunately when we got there, they had to close the roof bar due to poor weather, but the view from the 59th floor was more than fine (the 60th floor is a halfway point, moreso for toilets etc).
The meal was fantastic, and a 5 course meal cost less than what you would pay for one of the nicer restaurants in Sydney.
After dinner we were taken upstairs to the top floor and given a private tour of the bar, as well as getting the chance to look over Bangkok. That place is absolutely massive, no two ways about it!
After the tour and photos, we headed off to the nightclub section of Bangkok - Patpong - where we did the usual shows that tourists usually go and check out at least once :) We had a giggle, saw some strange things, and left with both of kidneys and no foreign diseases. a good night!
We certainly slept well that night…
Day 3
Day 3 was a bit different yet again - we spent 9 hours at a shopping centre. No shit. We went to MBK Center where we spent the entire day wandering around shops. We finally worked up the courage to give the food courts a go here too.
Now i should explain how the food courts work. We saw two different variations. One was you walked into the food court through a turnstile where someone greets you and hands you a “credit card”. you buy what you want on the card, and then at the end when you leave, you walk past the cash desk and clear off the balance on the card. This i could understand and all was fine.
The other tho, was you walk up to the foodcourt (just like any standard foodcourt) and the first thing you notice are signs on the kitchens saying “Coupons only” or “Cash only”… except there weren’t many cash only options. You then have to find the coupon desk and convert money into coupons. Then when you order, you pay in coupons instead of cash… when you’ve finished eating, you have up until 2100 to convert the coupons back to cash.
Now, the coupons look like monopoly money, and they give you change just like normal money. So why they dont actually deal in normal money, i have NFI.
But all i know is that i could get a full meal, a long neck of beer, and some fruit for AU3 bux. fantastic
After lunch we went and kicked back at an internet cafe to let lunch settle. Then we were back into the shopping again. We scoured every floor there, until finally it was time for dinner - so back upstairs we went to use the last of our coupons and enjoy another meal… this time with a foodcourt full of screaming soccer fans.
After dinner and more internet, we started to head back down. It was about 9pm at this stage, and people were all gathered around every floor watching the massive lcd display that hangs down the centre of the building - watching the soccer. Weird
Just before we left, i bought a 3 string thai guitar that thankfully i had no dramas getting back through customs
That was or Saturday. Just being nothing but mallrats
Day 4
Finally we got to Penis garden! Today we just bummed around, went wandering through the markets again, and went to the Penis garden. Its not officially known as that, but its what we’re calling it :P Its a shrine at the back of a hotel (oddly enough) that appears in the Lonely Planet guide as a destination point for people who are looking for that extra kick in the pants, fertility wise. All sorts of penii were laying around, carved from wood, made from foam, cement, mosaic tiles, the lot. The garden was edged by a row of penii that went the entire way around the shrine. It was quite amusing, we got some very tasteful and mature photos here (again, they’ll be coming soonish :P).
Afterwards, we headed out to the Patpong night markets where we had dinner (i had froglegs and ostritch) and shopped away until something like 1am. Sydney definitely needs more late nite options like this
Day 5
Our last day in Thailand, we started the day off with a trip to the Grand Palace and the Emerald Buddha. This place was amazing, so much time and effort has gone into everything here. The place is so ornate, so amazing in the detail.
And the place is guarded by soldiers carrying machine guns. Then again, it is where Thai royal ceremonies and so forth are held. The Kings dead sister has been on display here for 7 months before her burial in February next year, and there were a steady procession of Thais (no foreigners allowed) still paying their respects.
The Emerald Buddha was something else entirely. No photos were allowed, but the hall where it is kept is chock full of people praying, and minders there making sure you dont break the rules (be quiet, no photos, dont point your feet at the Buddha). It was a very different experience compared to what people consider religion over here. It just seemed more real and touching to these people, unlike the lip service which is used as artillery in the “Holier than Thou” wars fought over here.
After seeing the Buddha we made our way over to the halls where the Coronations took place, as well as seeing the Kings weapons collection. A musket with a 3m long barrel? Couldn’t hit the side of an elephant with that, surely!
Also there were the palace guards who stand there at attention (unless their superior comes over and relives them) while tourists take photos around them… It was hot enough day without having to stand in the sun in full uniform.
On the way out we survived the pushiest of the locals trying to sell us souveniers. Up until this point, they would be forward - but not to the point where they swarm around you and pull you every direction. Thankfully i had a firm grip on Danielle, and just kept moving through the crowd while laughing and smiling… what else could you do?
On the way back to the hotel we passed some protest sites which we had heard about on the day before we left to go to Thailand… It was peaceful from what we could see, with a lot of people doing the usual - handing out leaflets, hanging signs etc. It was good to see people getting involved, as voting over there is compusory but not enforced. So to see people still taking an active interest in their local government was fantastic.
I should also mention that while we were in Bangkok, i devoured the local english speakign newspapers daily, and made the effort to watch the news in the morning and night if we were at the hotel and just chilling. Their PM was given the punt because he hosted 2 cooking programs on Thai tv :) Gotta love that.
Once back from the Temple, we packed our gear together, and took one last stroll out in Bangkok. Lunch was one of the strangest thing i’ve eaten - think thai chilli soup with spaghetti noodles… odd.
A drink or two later at the hotel and we were in a van and off to the airport - saying goodbye to Thailand on the whole.
The flight home was pretty much a non event - we slept. It left Thailand at 2359 and we were back on Australian soil at around 1230.
Getting through customs was no dramas at all - we told them exactly what we had, they didn’t even care to see them. I showed the guy my guitar, and he was more interested in the actual guitar than if it was anything he should be concerned about.
A couple of things i noticed when we stepped out of the airconditioned airport and back into the Sydney atmosphere:
1) The air is really clean. People told us Thailand smells and its dirty. I disagree with both. I didn’t find it dirty, and while the air had a certain flavour - it wasn’t all that smelly. However that first breath of Sydney air was like that cold glass of water in the morning after a massive night.
2) Just because its sunny outside, doesn’t mean its warm. We were fucking cold! The sun was shining, on the radio they were saying its a glorious 25 degrees - and we were freezing!
All in all i’m happy to be home. The holiday lasted just long enough so that i felt ready when it was time to leave. I have taken some things away from the trip regarding how we do things, and i’ll be looking to change some of my habits and behaviours for sure.
Plus i have fallen in love with korean tv channel Arirang (tho i cant watch it non stop - it does get boring) and japanese channel NHK World. I’ve found a way to get Arirang streaming online, but still looking for NHK World if anyone can help
So thats it in a nutshell. Be patient and there will be photos. At this stage you can find most of them on my facebook anyway. Also there is about 9 hours of video i’ve got to get through and i’ll be uploading clips to youtube.
Whats next? Well.. Danielle’s Ma wants to travel to Hong Kong next year as a family trip, and we’ll most likely go along with her. On the back end of that, we’re thinking of jumping a flight to Tokyo and spending a week there as well.
I guess its time to start saving again
J
